Guns For Hire
Safety and Maintenance Page
Motorcycles can not be driven safely!!! According to Webster's Dictionary Safely, means absence of risk. Nothing can be done without risk, but we can minimize our risks. Being well trained and insuring our motorcycles are in the best operating condition is just the beginning.
The tips below are provided as a courtesy. They are not meant to replace trained teachers or mechanics. Some of the tips below may require mechanical ability. We recommend purchasing a service manual, reading the tip thoroughly before trying to attempt, and if any doubt is present...let a professional do it.
Click for
Maintenance Tips
Safety Tips
|
Don't forget to: watch the go through the T-CLOCK safety check
and beware of
before you ride! For Parking in
If you are a sadist, want to use this page as an example, or have a
photo/experience you would like to add, visit: |
TIP of the day, week, month, or whenever we have a chance or reason to update this spot.
|
We all love to see the yellow DOT sign alerting us of upcoming turns, but if we don't know the degree of turn it could be hazardous. Especially when the sign says 20 MPH and the road is posted at 50!
A rider enters a corner a little hot, instead of leaning the bike over harder, he/she brakes, which stands the bike up and increases the turning radius. As the rider goes wide he fixates on an an object he definitely doesn't want to hit. Instead of avoiding the object, he runs right into it! This is known as Target Fixation, a leading cause of accidents. This is very common in decreasing radius turns. A decreasing radius turn gets sharper as you go through it. It is best described by Keith Code as "a turn that invites you in faster than it lets you out."
To avoid this and to enjoy the road better:
Set cornering speed early, dont rush in, better a little slow than sorry. Look where you want to go. Use all of of your lane while cornering; stay to the outside and turn in late. This gives you more time to brake while upright, see through the turn, and execute a late apex allowing the bike to come upright sooner and apply the gas earlier. Do not ride next to the center line in the event an oncoming vehicle crosses it. The center line should act as a gauge; if you cross it, you did something beyond your limits. It is possible you read the turn wrong, entered too fast, or are not in complete control of your bike. To let it go without consideration can someday bite you hard. Motorcycling is one of the best things to enjoy on the planet, but it can also punish harshly or fatally for a mistake.
Know your favorite roads; not only where the cops sit, but the condition and the possible scenarios. Notice where the gravel and water accumulate during and after a storm. The places other vehicles are known to pull out or cross the center line.
On the straight and normal roads; look down the road, this slows eveything down, minimizing the suprises. Always scan the road in front and back of you. Watch for possible scenarios and patterns. If a series of brake lights come on, it could mean more than the obvious traffic ahead. Debris can be in the road; make sure you are in the wheel lines, back off, and watch for cars swerving. Be aware of your position, never get between a vehicle and an exit. Use all of your senses, if you smell gas or deisel, look down and make sure you not riding in, or into it. Notice whats happening on a section of road so that when you come up on a similiar section of the same road you know what to expect. An example follows:
You are riding and smelling deisel, around a right hander you notice a streak of the fuel on the ground. You handle it and ride on. As another right hander approaches you know what position to be in just in case. Finally you pass a truck and notice the left fuel tank's cap is hanging off, still attached to the safety chain, and fuel is spilling out. You try to tell him he is cutting down his mileage considerably and ride on.
Know your limits and how the bike reacts to different inputs. In a parking lot or on an empty road, try some things(on wet and dry):
Image:
How we appear to other people is important. Motorcycling is not always viewed positevely. If we can do something to improve the image, why not just do it. Giving a person the right of way can go a long way. At lights; if you have a habit of winding your way up to the front, make sure you pull away quickly. To get in front of everybody then delay them is rude. In traffic: don't ride tucked in on the straights or hang off in the corners, it doesn't accomplish much on the street and draws alot of negative attention. There are plenty of times we can let loose - just use your brain!
Learn from your mistakes - don't make excuses for a crash, figure out what really caused it so it can't happen again.
Cold, wet, and other conditions effect you and the way certain things respond. The weather poses many challenges. With tire traction lessened and visibility reduced you need to be an extra step ahead at all times. Other vehicle operators are not expecting motorcycles to be around. To compound the difficulties, your reactions are slowed the longer you are exposed to the lower temperatures. Traction is not as good as it could be either.
The best way to battle the elaments is to be prepared. This is one time being an optamist is not advised. There are certain products designed for these adverse weather conditions. They can actually increase your riding time or season. These products can be found by talking to our parts staff or going to our parts page-just click HERE . One product that is a must is the insert. Another way to prevent fog is after cleaning your faceshield, use ONE drop of dish detergent on a towel and rub it on the inside until it disapears. This lasts a couple of days and less in the really cold weather.
Others tips:
By James R. Davis
Helmet and Health info.
Maintenance Tips
GENERAL:
If you have had a bike in the garage for a while, just purchased a used motorcycle, or are "putting one back on the road" the following is a basic outline. First, go to the T-CLOCK safety check page and print it out.
To start the process; thoroughly check you're motorcylce using the T-C.L.O.C.K. safety check and your motorcycle owners manual (MOM). Make a list of anything that needs attention or replacing. This will take care of the Tires, Controls, Lights, Oil, Chassis, and Kickstand. One other thing that should be done is to drain and clean each carb float bowl. The cleaning will rid the carb of any debris that has accumulated.
Below are some of the basics taken one step deeper.
FLUIDS:
OIL and FILTERS The use of motorcycle oil is imperative because on most models the oil must also lubricate the transmission. Synthetic oils are usually better but beware of additives. If the oil is not compatible it may ruin the clutch and cause unpredictable results. To be certain about types, see the service or parts manager of your motorcycle brand.
Air filters need to be checked and depending on riding conditions, changed accordingly. There are after-market filters, such as K&N, that improve performance and are reusable (go to our PARTS section for more info).
ANTI-FREEZE
Check the anti-freeze level and when it was last changed. If you are unsure, replace the fluid. Anti-freeze looses its potency as it ages and when it gets diluted, such as topping off with water.
BRAKE and CLUTCH FLUIDS
The hydraulic fluid used for Brakes and clutches absorb moisture and need to be replaced every few years.
TIRES
Be careful of new tires! The manufactures use a releasing agent to free them from the mold. The tires will remain slippery until they are "scrubbed-in". This means the entire surface has been used and a riding temperature has been reached. This usually occurs after about fifty miles of riding that includes curves and corners.
Always check the air pressure! See the warning labels on the motorcycle or in the owners manual. Watch for wear. Uneven wear could indicate other problems.
Use the recommended sizes and compounds. The motorcycle's geometry is well designed and should be kept. Motorcycle tires and their need for more traction limits their mileage. A harder compound (touring) will last longer but provide less traction. A softer compound (racing) will provide more traction but less mileage. Soft compound tires also need time to heat-up. On cold days they will be extremely prone to break traction and this must be kept on ones mind.
Special note: If the tires are more then a few years old, even if they are not dry rotted or warn, should be replaced because tire technology advances so much each year.
SUSPENSION
Today's motorcycles have almost perfect suspensions. The only drawbacks are time/age and stock suspensions must suit all riders under average conditions.
Suspensions must be set for each rider's weight and style. The owners manual will cover the basics. To learn more about suspension and set-up, visit
Over time, constant use will wear the fluids in the front forks out. Also like most fluids, fork oil will absorb moisture and loose it's viscosity. Oil on the forks reveal seals that have been worn out or "blown" and must be repaired. Rear shocks also go through similar changes. Some shocks use oil and special gasses. If the seals start leaking (oil will be seen on the shock rod), the gas has escaped and the shock needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
BATTERY
Battery terminals need to be checked for cleanliness and tightness, the electrolyte level also needs to be checked, and the vent hose should be clear and the routing have no blocks or kinks. To learn all you ever wanted to know about batteries, visit the website.
STORAGE MAINTENANCE:
To store, or not to store. This section concentrates on winter storage but can be applied to any long or short- term storage period. Lately, winters in our area have been very mild, even the coldest months have had a few comfortable riding days.
To start the process; thoroughly check you're motorcylce using the T-CLOCK safety check and your motorcycle owners manual (MOM). Make a list of anything that needs attention or replacing.
If the motorcycle will be stored for only short periods of time you only need to top the fuel tank off and use a BATTERY TENDER (a smart charger, recognizes when the battery needs charging).
For longer periods, either use Gas Stabilizer in a topped of tank or totally drain the entire fuel system (Tank and Carbs). Spray a light coat of WD-40 inside the tank once empty. If your bike is fuel injected, please call our service department. The battery should be removed and placed on a Battery Tender. NOTE: "Don't do this in the same room as your gas water heater, as the hydrogen gas given off by the battery may explode and nuke you're house."
For more information, please use 2WF.COM's...
Click for Safety tips